Posted in Jewellery and Charms, Tutorials

Miniature River Rock Pendant Tutorial

Remember my resin rocks post? I made a tutorial. This is that tutorial.


  • Cameo backs/bezels of your choice
  • Small stones of any kind. You could hunt for some on a beach. I had some in a jar.
  • A few toothpicks
  • Clear epoxy resin and all the tools associated with it (stirring stick, stirring cup, measuring spoon, etc.)


I used a bit of plasticine to level out my bezel, because it didn’t lie flat.


There’s really not that much to this process… start adding rocks!
I started with a big one because I thought it was easier to build around it with the little ones.


Use a toothpick to help you poke around and rearrange as you like. Try to use a variety of sizes, as this will look most dimensional and interesting, I think, but play around with it.

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Make sure to fill in every part of the bezel, so there are no gaps or blank spots. The smallest rocks are useful for filling in the little spaces. I let some of the pointy ones stick out past the edge of the bezel, just because it’ll look more interesting when we fill it with resin.

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Once the rocks have been arranged to your liking, mix up some resin to trap them there forever. Mine had a ratio of 1:3, but every brand will be different.

As you can see, I made two.

Drip the resin in carefully with your stirring stick, and don’t overfill! (I did that on one of mine.) If yours does spill out a bit, use a cotton bud to wipe around the edge and soak up some of the resin.


Make sure not to miss any spots. Once your pendant is filled, put it on a silicone mat (or an upturned mold) to set.


This is an excellent time to try to clean up the toxic mess of resin that inevitably happened all over your crafting table.

Once they set, you are done!


They are very dimensional and shiny.



Add jewelry findings and some chain to make them into a necklace (or whatever you want) and enjoy your new pendants! 😀

(I also posted this tutorial as a video on my youtube channel. Pls give me views.)

Posted in Jewellery and Charms, Tutorials

Pastel Opal Polymer Clay Tutorial

I hope you can all find some measure of clarity in these pictures; it was a rainy day.

This is the tutorial for the faux opals I made in the previous post, in case you are mightily confused.

The Necessary Materials:

  • Translucent white polymer clay of some description (whatever brand you like, I used Sculpey.)
  • Something to color it with – either small bits of colored clay, chalk pastel powder, mica powders – whatever you want to use.
  • Iridescent glitter – the confetti flake type might work best, but I had tinsel glitter, so that’s what I used. I’d avoid round glitter or glitter that’s a very regular shape, unless you like that look.
  • A craft knife – you’ll need to cut some thin slices, so a scalpel/Xacto type with a handle might not work as well as a flat blade.
  • Hole-poking tools of some description (if you need them, I used a ball tool.)
  • A polymer-clay safe gloss glaze.
  • Jewelry findings, depending on what you want to make it into.

Start with conditioning your translucent clay. I separated it into small bits so I could add some mica powders to color them in a few pastel colors. You want to keep one large portion white. Keep in mind that translucent colors tend to deepen when baked, so don’t add too much pigment (I did that with a few colors :/)


(This is the type of glitter I used, in pink and white. Flake or confetti glitter, which I could not locate, would probably have worked better.)

Glitter: **glitters**


Start with a small chunk of the white translucent. Slice a thin piece of one of the colors and press them together.


Continue with more colors. You want to layer them patchily over each other, with varying sizes. Don’t worry about the shape yet.


Do keep adding white slices between some colors, to make sure they don’t blend too much into each other. Unlike the rest of life, it should be predominantly white.




Because I wanted to make a few things from this chunk, I cut it into pieces with the blade. As you can see, the cross section looks much like an anatomical chart of a unicorn’s brain.


Smooth down all the edges and smush it into an approximation of the shape you want. I added a bit of glitter here and there over the top.


Cut or roll some very thin slices of white translucent. (The one in the picture is not very thin, nor white, but I’m sure you can do better than me.)
You don’t want the edges to be straight whatsoever – pull at them to roughen them up a bit.


Layer them over the top of your shaped pieces – they don’t have to cover the whole piece, but should cover the majority.


Continue for all your pieces.


This is the fun part: using your blade, cut slices away from the surface to create facets and to reveal some of the colors underneath. Use a reference picture if you need to, but it’s pretty easy. Vary the size of the facets, and unless you’re going for a very uniform faceted stone, try not to put a large one directly in the middle. You could also use a stone mold if you have one, but seeing as I am a peasant and I do not own anything so exciting I did it this way.


Keep at it until you like the look of the stone. After baking, I realized the pink was coming on too strong so I ended up putting a bit more translucent over the top and baking again, so let this be a lesson in not overpigmenting your clay!


Repeat for your other pieces – as you can see, the bigger the stone, the more facets you can put in, but the little ones look pretty cool too, I think. I pierced a hole in the teardrop shape, and added a few scratches with the blade. I also added a bit of liquid clay on the back around the hole to strengthen it. I used a ball tool and the end of a crochet hook to make the hole, but make sure you open it up from the back of the piece as well to make sure it’s open all the way through.

So, before baking:


And after.


I brushed on a layer of clear polyurethane gloss. The colors do intensify after baking, so do be careful when mixing your initial colors, but you can of course vary the depths of the colors according to what you want it to look like.

Add some jewelry findings, and you’re done!


(I suppose this is more a rainbow moon rock/unicorn bezoar than a realistic opal, but shush.)

Posted in Tutorials

Polymer clay dragon eyes tutorial

When I first thought about making dragon eyes there weren’t any tutorials that I liked so I am making one.

You need three colors of polymer clay and a glass stone. I mixed metallic gold with black and white to make one light, one dark, and one middling. The stone can be whatever size you want.


Roll your lightest color into a snake and cut two pieces off. Taper the ends and make sure they fit around your stone.

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I do this on a ceramic plate that I can put into the oven. You won’t be able to move the stone or clay once you start. You also might need to add a little piece of clay to the inner corner of the eye as a tearduct, depending on how wide you want the eye to be open and whether your stone is round or oval. I didn’t add a tearduct.

Next, get something small and thin and shape the scales. You could probably use a toothpick, but I used a small flat tool.


Continue adding layers of scales in this way, using the middle color of clay once you’ve run out of the pale one.


As you position the snakes of clay, think about how the overall shape will look. If you’re not careful, yours could end up shaped a bit oddly, as my first attempt did. A winged, tapered shape like in the picture would probably be simplest and look the best, but feel free to have fun with it.

Roll a thicker snake of the darkest color for the eyebrow ridge.


Once you’re happy with the shape, bake it and pop out the glass stone. It should come out easily.


I painted the iris on the back of the stone with nail polish, but you could draw or print out an iris on paper and glue it on, if you don’t have nail polish. I also sponged some metallic nail polish on the scales.

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When the iris is dry, glue the stone back in place with superglue. You could also glue a piece of felt on the back for a neater finish. If you want to add a headpin, glue it between the felt and the eye.




You are done!